Headlight & Instrument Cluster Removal

Removing the headlight was easy.  Just pop it off with a screwdriver...

Then I can remove the wires from the instrument cluster.  The bulbs slide out of their sleeves with little effort.

And a picture for keeping the wires in order during reinstallation:

Aluminum Polishing

Strategy:  Degrease with parts washer, scrub with steel wool and aluminum cleaner, polish with Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish.

Result:  Decent shine

Evaluate:  Deep oil stains take a while to remove.

Strategy:  A step further--another pass with steel wool and polish.  Then some application of "Rub 'n' Buff".

Result:  Extreme shine.

Evaluate:  Overkill.  Not sure I'll use that again.  Reinstalled points cover to keep that area free of debris as I attack the frame with rust remover and a wire brush.  See stark contrast below.

Start of front end disassembly...

First step was removing the wheel.

Pinch nuts...

Axle end nut...

Brake arms...

Brake support...

Then after driving the axle out...the wheel is free!!

Looks like the old brake shoes.  Plenty of pad left but no clue as to the age. 

Shoes removed, brake hub goes into the parts washer...

Frame Rust Near Steering Head

After taking the tank off, I noticed some frame rust where the tubes join the steering head.  It appears to be surface rust only, but I need to address this sooner rather than later. 

Being that the steering head bearings are also nearly half a century old, it's probably time to replace them.  The next project will therefore be refurbishing everything from the steering head down:  wheel, tire, tube, front brakes, fork rebuild, and eventually, headlight/instrument cluster.

She Starts!

So the bike starts.


Strategy:  Soldered together the broken points wire, secured out of way of the spinning advance mechanism, hooked up the battery, tickled the carbs, and thumbed the starter.
Result:  Started on second press of the starter button.
Evaluate:  Smoke from hole in crossover tube.  Probably due to debris and rust in exhaust, and oil in combustion chamber.  Later, smoke from spark plug area.  Apparently spark plugs were VERY loose (human performance error on my part).  Engine must be able to run on significantly low compression for this to be the case.

Video of Unexpected Run

Based on this minor success, and realizing I'm not going to be tearing down the engine much further than I need to get to the piston rings, I'm not set on doing the complete strip-to-the-frame restoration like I originally thought.  I think my primary focus will be on getting the bike safe, reliable, and road-worthy.

Points Cover Removed

Wanted to ascertain the current status of the electrical system (other than "Ain't got no spark").

Strategy:  Removed the points cover for general visual inspection.
Result:  Issues were immediately obvious.
Evaluate:  Effective.  Problems with broken points wire discovered immediately.

It appears the previous owner crushed the points wire under the points cover, instead of verifying the grommet on the wire sheath was securely planted in the pass-through.

Notes:  Conductor thoroughly severed.  Attempting to pry the wire loose from the rubber gasket resulted in the wire severing completely.  Repair via solder?  No.  Insufficient length of remaining conductor.

Ordered new Enduralast contact point and condenser.  Immediately cancelled order due to finding new contact point and condenser in an "airhead tune up package" for just $4 more.

Exhaust, Compression Test

Spent some time trying to discern if the exhaust was all or partially salvageable today.

Strategy:  Scotch-Brite pad, WD-40 and rag to clean off / check progress.
Result:  Right side header is likely okay, though ugly.  Left side may be a lost cause.
Evaluate:  Effective on light surface rust.  Not effective on anything else.

Note:  Some guy wrote me to tell me he swears by aluminum foil and soapy water.  Will try later.  More important numbers to check tonight. 

Also hooked up the compression gauge.

Strategy:  Remove both plugs, throttle open (slide carbs, not CV carbs), install compression gauge on desired cylinder, kicked the bike over such that desired cylinder endured 6 compression strokes.
Result:  See picture below.  Both cylinders lower than desired.  Left is MUCH lower than desired.
Evaluate:  Perhaps bike hasn't truly been fired up in a while.  Diagnose rings, valves, etc.  Need better test.

Notes:  Errors in this type of compression test are conservative in that they drive pressure lower.

What's next: 

• Need cylinder leak-down tester.  Cheap one will work -- not interested in the leakage value so much as the leakage mechanism.
• Explore stainless exhaust options (can always be repolished, unlike chrome exhaust)

Initial Scoping

After getting the R60 home and unloaded yesterday, it was time to take a break and make a logical, organized attempt to scope out the project.

Initial shopping list (high level):

• Battery
• Aluminum cleaner
• Aluminum polish
• Oil pan gasket
• Tires & tubes
• Rust remover (thinking Griot's spray-on gel)

Likely needed parts:

• Points
• Plugs
• Just about every soft part on the thing

Big Projects:

• Get tank, fenders painted?
• Rebuild speedometer (Wirespokes from AdvRider?)
• Rebuild wheels?
• Strip to frame, powder coat (depending on frame rust)

Purchased!

Found a BMW R60/5 in Lancing TN.  Supposedly it ran last week; deeply discounted after it failed to start.

Stated by Previous Owner:

• Second owner
• 39k original miles
• Runs decently
• Shifts decently
• Tank recently cleaned

Known First Hand (Trust but Verify, right?):

• Rust on frame
• If steering damper is not fully loose, it dumps rust-colored dust every time bars are turned.
• Carbs drip onto floor when petcocks opened (needle valve issue?)
• Rattle-can paint job over a decent silver coat
• Push rod seal leak - both sides
• Rotted tires
• Exhaust rusted through in at least one spot.
• No spark at the plugs.  

Bought it anyway.

Intro

Keeping this short and basic, as otherwise I won't keep up with posting.

This is not going to be a typical blog.  It may be just a way of showing some pictures or even just an informal build log.  Who knows yet.

Basically I've been drooling over having a fun vintage motorcycle restoration project since about 2008, and lately I decided to do something about that (in lieu of another 9 years of just reading Classic Motorcycle Mechanics and Motorcycle Classics magazines).

I was dead set on getting an older BMW, and the /5 seemed to be the sweet spot for simplicity in my book.

Here goes...